I watch from the Autostrada as the explosion of black cloud erupts from the snow-capped peak of Etna.  A single long, dark grey cloud forms and snakes towards us.  This is not weather, not a rain cloud.  This is volcanic dust.  Within a matter of seconds my car has changed from silver to black, the streets have gone from pale concrete to dark graphite.  It’s raining pebbles of ash!

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