The delicate art of wine
We may know which one we prefer for a summer evening quaff with friends or which wine to choose to enhance a deserving dish. However, how much do we really know about the trials and tribulations that go
into any wine on its journey from the grape to our table? If we did,we’d treat it with a lot more respect
We’d booked a tour of Gulino vineyard for our little group with my daughter and her partner having flown
in from London for a stay and we were to be joined by a middle-aged gang of four from the States. A very
pleasant group who said that they originated from Rhode Island but were now from New York. I never
worked out whether they meant the state or the city but I was struck by the way they regarded coming
from a different state in the same way others regard coming from another country.
The brief shower of rain thankfully drifted by as Simona, one of the winery owners, guided us to the centre of hundreds of rows of vines. We still pick by hand she proclaimed, much to my astonishment as I tried to count the rows I could see, never mind the vast area to our right and behind.
She explained the work they had had to do to make this a going concern. They’d taken over a land that had long been neglected, buildings that were on the point of ruin and slowly resurrected them to their former glory. Replanting indigenous grapes, rebuilding without losing the soul of the original architecture,
restoring the birth of the finest of wines. Archimedes was born here, long after the Greeks had discovered these plains, discovered a terrain created by the African and European continental plates colliding to produce the perfect soil.
Since the nineties, they have tried, failed, tried again and failed until their persistence and belief now
produces some of the finest wines. Famous first for a dessert wine, they have developed two special dry
wines from the Moscato and full-bodied reds from Nero d’Avola grapes. First there was too much alcohol
so sugar had to be controlled, blending and barrels had to be taken into account and then to gain DOC
accreditation, water content must also be considered. Twice a year is their allowance. Now as the climate
changes, a new challenge emerges. Picking times have also had to change. Septembercan’t wait, it can now be August or even July. A constant eye is required.
We were to finish our tour with aperitivi and a tasting. Only problem, an Italian “snack” is a full-blown 2
course lunch. Plates of food, glasses of white for the appetisers, full bodied reds for the pasta. As a group we tasted, ate and drank Finally, after some debate and tasting once again to be sure, our table all agreed on which we should take home; The Eileas Moscato.
You are unlikely to find these wonders in your supermarket and a search of discerning boutiques may be
required. Otherwise, treat yourself to a trip to Siracusa, to Cantina Gulino.